{"id":11667,"date":"2013-11-19T22:28:59","date_gmt":"2013-11-20T03:28:59","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.scottedelman.com\/?p=11667"},"modified":"2013-11-19T22:52:39","modified_gmt":"2013-11-20T03:52:39","slug":"another-amazing-meal-at-next-celebrating-the-bocuse-dor-competition","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.scottedelman.com\/wordpress\/2013\/11\/19\/another-amazing-meal-at-next-celebrating-the-bocuse-dor-competition\/","title":{"rendered":"Another amazing meal at Next: Celebrating the Bocuse d’Or competition"},"content":{"rendered":"

Saturday night, Irene and I went to Brigadoon. Or at least … that’s how I think of it.<\/p>\n

If you’ve been visiting here for awhile, you’ve already heard about Next<\/a>, the Chicago restaurant that reinvents itself three times a year, totally changing its menu in an explorations of new cuisines. I’d already been there for Sicily<\/a>, Kyoto<\/a>, The Hunt<\/a>, and Vegan<\/a>.<\/p>\n

I think of Next as Brigadoon because it’s here … and then gone. Unlike with other restaurants, you can’t say, oh, I’ll get there next year<\/em>. Because whatever’s there now won’t be there a year from now. You’ve only approximately a three-month window in which to experience a meal, and then … it’s history.<\/p>\n

Which is why Irene and I flew to Chicago Saturday specifically so we could experience Next’s final menu of 2013, a tribute to the Bocuse d’Or competition.<\/p>\n

\"NextBocuseScottandIrene\"<\/a><\/p>\n

We sat at the Kitchen Table, which is the only table in the house capable of accommodating six people, and also the only one with a view of … well … the kitchen. I’ve been in the main dining room before, and loved my time there as well, but there’s something about seeing the process that’s captivating to me.<\/p>\n

They say you should never see sausage being made, but the more I’ve eaten at restaurants with views of the kitchen, the more I feel that adage only works as a metaphor. I actually do<\/em> want to see how the sausage is made. And the souffl\u00e9. And the consomm\u00e9. And the pheasant …<\/p>\n

\"NextBocuseKitchenTable\"<\/a><\/p>\n

I’ve purchased Kitchen Tables in the past with no idea who’d be joining me at them, and at the same time having no fear that I’d be unable to find willing co-conspirators. You can get away with that at a restaurant like Next, where the demand is so much greater than the supply. If I can’t find friends willing to join me the night I’m in town, putting the news out there on Next’s Facebook page<\/a> that I have free seats at my table generally gets it filled within 24 hours by copacetic foodies. So if you’re lucky enough to get a table at Next, whatever the size, never worry\u2014you’ll be able to fill it.<\/p>\n

But enough of that! What you really want to know is … how was the food?<\/p>\n

When we were seated at the table a little before our 6:45 reservation time, we found …<\/p>\n

Terrine of veal with fris\u00e9e salad and cipollini marmalade<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"NextBocuseTerrineVeal\"<\/a><\/p>\n

There was a cover atop the red, rectangular serving dish, which when lifted revealed a layer of fris\u00e9e salad, beneath which was hidden the terrine of veal. It was one of my favorite dishes of the night, rich and well-seasoned, with more of it at the table than we could possibly eat, especially since we were warned by the server that there’d be a lot<\/em> of food coming, and so we shouldn’t try to polish it off, but instead save room for what was to follow.<\/p>\n

Later that night, when it was all over, I wished I hadn’t observed that advice. It was that good.<\/p>\n

Once the table was cleared, the first dish to be brought to the table was …<\/p>\n

Osetra caviar with whipped buerre blanc and pine nut<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"NextBocuseCaviarPlated\"<\/a><\/p>\n

The plating alone was an exercise in decadence\u2014four progressively smaller gold-rimmed plates atop which sat one perfect bite. I popped it into my mouth whole and crushed it with my tongue against the roof of my mouth.<\/p>\n

\"NextBocuseCaviarCloseUp\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Delicate, delightful, and so over the top in presentation that it made me laugh.<\/p>\n

Next came …<\/p>\n

Mousse of darden ham and madeira aspic<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"NextBocuseHam\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Again, multiple plates framed a single bite. Well … make that two bites, as you can see below.<\/p>\n

\"NextBocuseHamCloseUp\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Smooth and rich, this dish was, assuming I’m correctly reading the menu we were each handed at the end of the night, from a Paul Bocuse recipe.<\/p>\n

Souffl\u00e9 of prawns<\/strong><\/p>\n

The third of what the menu classified as hors d’oeuvres courses was a delicate souffl\u00e9, and yet one full of life.<\/p>\n

\"NextBocusePrawnSouffle\"<\/a><\/p>\n

I could sense the sea …<\/p>\n

\"NextBocusePrawnSouffleCloseUp\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Custard of cauliflower with verjus rouge, rose, and foie gras<\/strong><\/p>\n

This dish that I find myself thinking back to most is this custard of cauliflower. <\/p>\n

\"NextBocuseCauliflowerCustard\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Which is surprising to me, as I’d have predicted it would be the pheasant or one of the desserts which would later send me into a dreamlike state.<\/p>\n

\"NextBocuseCauliflowerCustardCloseUp\"<\/a><\/p>\n

But no, this is the one that put the biggest smile on my face. You would not have wanted to hear the sounds that came out of my mouth as I licked the spoon that night. (Or maybe you would have. I don’t know you well enough to say.)<\/p>\n

Charred lettuce, bottarga, bonito, and peanut<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"NextBocuseLettuce\"<\/a><\/p>\n

This fifth and final of the hors d’oeuvres was the only dish of the night that didn’t touch me on an emotional level. I was not wowed, which, I know, is a lot to ask of any dish. Next sets the bar pretty high though, so I find myself thinking that at any other restaurant, this dish might very well have been a star. Context is everything.<\/p>\n

One thing the Bocuse d’Or competition is known for are the elaborate presentation platters prepared by the participating countries, and Next replicated this by having servers parade through the restaurant multiple times each night bearing similarly extravagant platters. Here’s the fish platter being carried through the dining room, which for this menu has been decorated with flags from the countries which compete.<\/p>\n