I’ve had so much on my plate recently that I’ve been unable to tell you about what was on my plates Saturday night during the World Fantasy Convention. And what was on those plates was good.

After studying many menus, I’d decided that the restaurant I most wanted to experience while in Brighton was Graze, and that rather than go with the a la carte menu, even though it was impressive, I wanted to try the tasting menu, which needed to be ordered by the entire table.

Luckily, I was able to find willing co-conspirators, and so on my penultimate night in town, I sat down with Ellen Datlow, Cheryl Morgan, and Kevin Standlee to this …

Amuse-bouche: A perfect bite of fish cake with truffle emulsion and bacon foam.

Butternut soup, gingerbread cream, vanilla and ginger foam: Comforting.

The dish of the night: Game terrine, elderberry jam, pistachio, Russian royalty bread.

Kevin was the only one who had the gravadlax, quail egg, dill powder, pumpernickel crumb and crisp—it was either that or the terrine—so all I can say is that it was beautifully plated.

Cep and blackberry risotto, crispy trompettes: As good as risotto gets.

Hand dived scallop, pear, sugar puffs, truffle, hazelnut—delicate, playful, tasty.

Another either/or choice: Most had the venison, walnut and cranberries, ceps, beets, baby onions, and spelt …

… while Cheryl had the pollock, trumpettes, girolles, artichoke purée, pancetta, savoy cabbage, truffle. Of the two, we felt the venison was the clear winner.

Elderflower and lemon pot: The flavor was tart and true.

The chocolate and orange parfait, orange curd, orange gel couldn’t be eaten, but instead demanded to be savored. Slowly … silently … thoughtfully.

We went for the optional cheese course of Shropshire Blue, Celtic Promise, Bath, Sister Sarah, and Yarg, and I’m glad we did. My first encounter with many of these.

To close, a cool, smooth mignardise of fudge.

I was very impressed by Graze. This was my favorite meal of the weekend (though Thursday at The Gingerman came a close second), and made me wish I could spend more time on that side of the pond. Brighton certainly surprised me. It’s more of a culinary destination than I’d ever dreamed.

My hat’s off to Chef Adrian Hawkins. Thanks so much for a memorable dinner!