We’ve eaten at Bryan Voltaggio’s Frederick restaurant Volt multiple times, both in the Main Dining Room and the Chef’s Dining Room. But somehow, we’ve never been able to snag reservations at Table 21, the 8-seat counter which wraps around the open kitchen, where you’re served a tasting menu comprised of (what else?) twenty-one courses. Reservations become available at 9:00 a.m. exactly one month in advance , and I guess I just never jumped quickly enough for the days I was seeking.

But last week, serendipity worked in my favor. Old friends who’d long been drooling over my various Volt reports were visiting from out of town, and I’d gotten reservations for us in the Chef’s Dining Room. But the day before, I received a cell from Volt asking whether we might like to move to Table 21, as there were suddenly four available seats.

Who could say no to that?

And so last Thursday, the four of us headed over to Maryland to join four strangers (who due to the intimate nature of the seating would soon become friends) around the kitchen as Chef de Cuisine Scott Muns (recently of Rose’s Luxury) led his team to serve up a delicious and inventive meal.

And so it began …

Pawpaw, tepache, 12 year el dorado rum

Those who know me will know that my first course was non-alcoholic, though.

Deviled egg, osetra caviar, Whitmore Farm hen egg, celeriac

Now that’s how to make a deviled egg!

Rice crisp, aged cheddar, bay spice

A rice crispy treat for a grown-up palate. Tempts me to try something like this at home, even though I know it wouldn’t be half as good.

Oyster, yuzu, lemon cucumber

Very refreshing after the heavier taste of the previous course.

Scallop, roasted pawpaw vinaigrette, habanero, spaghetti squash

When I bit into this one, it bit me back. Spicier than I expected!

Smoked beet, yellowfin tuna, egg yolk, tonato

Volt—as well as Range, another Voltaggio restaurant—has always had a way with beets, and this course was no exception.

Huckleberry, rose wine, fresh cheese

Deliciously creamy … and slightly tart, too.

Lobster mushroom, tosaka seaweed, pickled ramps, sea beans

So good it made me want to forage! However … this was when I got into a discussion with one of the chefs about whether what I thought were Chicken of the Woods mushrooms in my backyard really were Chicken of the Woods mushrooms, and decided … nah, best leave it to the professionals.

Foie gras, arugula, picked sour cherry

This was when I groaned and exclaimed, “I could die right now!” I thought it couldn’t get any better. But it did.

White asparagus, sea urchin, dashi, hickory smoke

May I please have another?

Mustard green soup, mussels, radish, brioche croutons

This was the dish brought out the murmurs in the old friend sitting next to me—lots of mmmmmmms—and deservedly so.

Sweet corn, filet bean, pea miso, corn smut

It’s been too long since I’ve had corn smut! A very rich combination.

Halibut, carrot, chamomile, buttermilk

An amazing piece of fish. And beautifully plated, too!

Raviolo, foie gras, butternut, white chocolate

We have a winner! As far as I’m concerned, this was the dish of the night. Kudos to Chef Muns for conceiving of it!

Sweetbreads, mole, pickled butternut squash, masa

Another dish with a kick! It would never have occurred to me to marry sweetbreads with mole, which is why I’m not the chef.

Lamb, summer beans, smoked eggplant, meyer lemon

I’m embarrassed to say that when this was placed before me, but before I dug in, I thought that was a piece a pork belly. Oh, the shame! But don’t worry. Once it reached my lips, there was no confusion. A lovely piece of lamb.

Waygu beef, salsify, malt, charred leeks

My wife could have eaten this all night.

Pleasant ridge, carrot, sourdough, golden raisin

A cheese course as we transition over to the desserts.

Persimmon, smoked celery root, mascarpone, chamomile

Delicate, subtle, and strangely calming.

Concord grape, dark chocolate, pistachio, salted caramel

My favorite of the desserts.

Orange creamsicle

You’ll never have one better. As we took our first bites, all eight of us fell silent.

The adventure over, we all rose to applaud the staff, and I chatted a bit with Chef de Cuisine Scott Muns. After all, he needed to know how awesome that raviolo was!

And as we hit the road, we were each given a small box, for no visit to Volt is complete without a little something for the road, in this case, four candies.

So ended another successful visit to Volt. We’ve yet to be disappointed.