I’ve been to Bryan Voltaggio’s Volt, his high-end restaurant where Irene and I experienced a seven-course anniversary dinner tasting menu. I’ve also been to Voltaggio’s Family Meal, for which the chef created a menu devoted to comfort food like chicken and biscuits and fried green tomatoes. So I figured it was time I tried out Lunchbox, his attempt at a gourmet sandwich shop.

And since I’d planned to head over to Maryland today to meet with a master tailor who could perfect the fit of those two jackets I first showed off at Chicon7, this seemed like the day for it.

I arrived at exactly 11:30 a.m., right when Lunchbox opened, so I was the first customer of the day. When I entered, I was welcomed enthusiastically, with one of the women behind the counter offering to explain the various sandwiches, since they weren’t your usual Subway grinders. I probably should have let her go ahead, just to see her shtick, but I’d studied the menu at home, and so already had an idea of the sandwiches which most called to me.

The two that seemed the most tempting were “mom’s meatloaf: tamarind ketchup, gruyere, onion marmalade, ciabatta” and the “pork shoulder: ham, pickle, gruyere, pickled cabbage, egg yolk, cilantro-lime, baguette,” though I must admit the “tcb: nutella, bananas, potato bread” looked tempting as well. (See what I mean about Voltaggio trying to put the “gourmet” in sandwich shop?)

In the end, I went for the pork shoulder sandwich, because you know me—when do I ever pass up a chance for some pork?

It made for an impressive and surprisingly filling sandwich. The ham was tender, the pickled cabbage had a nice bite to it, and the egg yolk helped pull it all together. Good bread, too! (Which bizarrely, considering how important bread is to a sandwich, so many sandwich shops fall short with.)

As for desserts, the three items on the menu are a brownie and either chocolate chip or oatmeal-raisin cookies. I went for the latter, which came two per paper bag.

They were moist rather than crisp, which is how I prefer them, though I know there are many who prefer those qualities reversed. Definitely made from quality ingredients, so the oatmeal-raisin at least was a solid cookie.

I’ll be back. And next time, I’ll have to give that meat loaf a try!